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Chains are things you probably need… unless you use belts.

A great list of things to check when your chain is misbehaving according to Jeremy from Baltimore Burners - 3/22/19:

  • Size of chain: #25 chain and T8F have smaller links, smaller teeth, so less engagement, less room for alignment error, and less room for tensioning error. most teams run #35 chain
  • Trueness of sprockets: when viewed from the top, do the sprockets wobble side to side as they rotate? sprockets out of true will result in changing alignment as they rotate
  • Eccentricity of the sprockets: when viewed from the top spinning without chain, does the sprocket have a constant radius? a changing radius will result in changing tension as they rotate
  • Retention of sprockets: do the sprockets slip axially along their respective shafts?
  • alignment of shafts: are the shafts parallel? if not, the chain will flex more
  • Alignment of the sprockets: when viewed from the top, are the sprockets coplanar? If not, the chain will flex more. Check with the motor running, the sideways motion of the chain due to misalignment will be more apparent
  • Tension of chain: When viewed from the side while running, does the chain wobble around significantly?
  • Binding of chain: Take the chain off. manipulate each link by hand. are any of the links stiff
  • Spin the drivetrain by hand. are there any spots that have a higher resistance than other spots

According to no actual research the most popular chain size in PRS is an ANSI #35 chain. If you run this size you may find other teams in the pits with replacement parts. (half links, master links, etc.)

cars/chains.1553537741.txt.gz · Last modified: 2019/03/25 13:15 by notyou007a